Free Tools

Fence Troubleshooter

Beeping transmitter, silent collar, or a dog that suddenly ignores the line? Answer a few questions and get a sequence of equipment checks and relevant guides. Confirm results against the actual model instructions.

Start here

What is your fence doing?

For wired in-ground fences: wall transmitter + buried loop. GPS or wireless collar system? Pick 'My fence has no buried wire' below.

Most faults fall out in two or three questions. The stubborn ones get the same checks an installer runs, cheapest first.

What this tool covers

102 diagnostic paths across every common failure, in the order a professional installer would check them: cheapest and most likely first.

Wire & signal faults

Beeping transmitter, buried wire breaks, bad terminals, twisted-pair leaks, signal hotspots, metal interference, inherited or discontinued systems

Collar & battery

Silent collars, tone-only settings, fit and contact problems, fast battery drain, pairing mismatches, indoor beeps, nonstop-correction emergencies

Weather & intermittent

Wet-weather dropouts, winter battery loss, snowpack escapes, frost heave, random cut-outs

Escapes & training

One-spot escapes at crossings and corners, narrow warning zones, run-throughs, re-entry traps, yard-fear recovery, training regressions

Field notes behind the diagnoses

The tool's recommendations follow the equipment checks described in our guides. A symptom suggests a check; it does not by itself prove a component has failed.

Check terminal connections before searching for a buried break: A bad connection at the terminal block reads exactly like a cut loop, and the transmitter can't tell the difference. Pull the wires, strip back fresh copper, and reseat before you dig anything up.
Use the model's documented short-loop systems test: The required test-wire length, controls, and receiver checks depend on the model. An alarm clearing on a jumper alone does not prove transmitter output or receiver operation; follow the full manufacturer test before replacing parts.
Use a waterproof splice method rated for the installation: The splice is the weakest point of any repair. The right method uses both parts together: cap the ends with a wire nut leaving no exposed copper, tie a strain-relief knot 3-4 inches back, then seal the nut inside a gel-filled direct-burial capsule and record the location. An ordinary bare nut or tape alone does not provide the manufacturer's waterproof splice method.
Batteries fail quietly before they fail completely: A weak cell powers the warning beep but sags under the correction load. Follow the exact receiver's battery schedule and low-power indicators, using the specified replacement battery or charging procedure.
Check the actual field instead of assuming what stopped working: Use the actual transmitter and receiver's off-dog field and output tests across the complete route and usable safe area. An assumed running speed or generic width does not explain every escape. Make only supported changes and review suitability rather than automatically increase stimulation.
Fit and contact are checks, not a diagnosis from one symptom: Follow the actual receiver's placement, strap-fit and contact instructions, using approved compatible parts. Inspect the skin and reassess after coat, weight or strap changes. A lack of reaction does not establish a contact fault or justify tighter fit or higher stimulation; stop use for irritation or distress and seek appropriate advice.

Want the full procedures? Start with the signal troubleshooting guide and the collar troubleshooting guide. Diagnosed something you'd rather not fix yourself? Get a repair quote